Monday, September 12, 2011

Tokyo so far

My first full day I spent I Tokyo I walked over to Asukusa temple. The good thing about my hostel(besides having ac) is that's very close to everything. The temple is pretty cool but I didn't get to explore much because as soon as I sat down next to it a crazy old Japanese man came and talked to me for what had to be 30 minutes. He spoke broken English and every other word was "you know you know" or "you understand" and he had incredibly thick hands and the worst looking toenails. But he was a nice guy and told me about how you shouldn't look at Japanese in the eyes and various other aspects of Japanese culture. He kept telling me about some place I had to go on the edge of Tokyo where I could stand in front of a tv station and pick up Japanese girls. He thought this was a good thing, mentioning several times that the US was open and international and that Japan was becoming more international. I told him I already met a Japanese girl and he kept asking how a Japanese man could pick up a western lady. Toe nail clippers would be a good start. Nice guy though, and I actually learned a lot. I had to meet Dai San and his mother though so I stopped back at the hostel and hopped on the train to Shinigawa where I met them at the train station. There we had udon and tempura. Dai is looking good but his his mother tells me that his blindness is getting worse. I also found out that the reason they didn't offer me a place to stay was that they had just moved into a new house and have yet to unpack.

We talked about the Earthquake a bit and I found out that not only was Dai san in the bathroom at an underground barbershop when the Earthquake hit, but that he had gone alone by Taxi. Cell phones didn't work after the quake and it took 4 hours for him to get home when usually it takes a half hour by train. Michi San was understandably worried. Was good to see they were both ok though.

Got back home walked around a bit and crashed. Next morning went to Akihabara, which is the electronics district in Tokyo and they have tons of anime, arcades, and girls in little maids outfits with short skirts and long stockings passing out fliers for businesses. (Note to self - that marketing problem at bar, might have solution). Looked around for a cd for a friend and found a few games I might want to get next year when the budget allows for it.

Talked to Mari last might by phone. Took forever to figure out how to get the phone to work so I kept walking back and forth to the pay phone until I finally just used the hostel phone and a calling card. Sat in the hostel common area with my iPad in hand to translate but it turns out I didn't need it much. We chatted some more online using Facebook and I crashed out shortly after.

Today I'm meeting Dai again and we're going to The Ginza district. Not entirely sure what is there but I'll find out.

More to come, home on Friday

Sunday, September 11, 2011

Last days in Okinawa, reflections, and Tokyo

My second to last day in Okinawa was interesting. A friend of Mari's took us a to a little known site used by Japanese soldiers. After heading up a steep tree covered hill we got to a spot with some small man made caves which we did not enter. To the left of the path was a metal and wood frame covered with a tarp. Underneath we're the remains of 5 Japanese soldiers with 2 skulls, a spine, and a few other bones visible. It was as fascinating as it was eerie and a reminder how different Okinawa was now. Afterwards we drove to anothier shrine in the woods that you could reach by walking up a small stone trail. There were a lot of peole there and some very cool rock formations. I think Mari said that it was a place of healing or cleansing.

My last day in Okinawa was spent on a pristine beach with Mari, where we rented some goggles and did some diving. The water was very clear and we took a boat ride as well which took us to a spot with even clearer water. Had the water been any cleaner you'd thnk the boat was floating on air. The guide pointed out some 5,000 year old coral and fed some fish as well so that we could see them come up. We headed back and swam one last time and I spent my last few minutes holding Mari in the ocean watching small tears well up in her eyes. The day was about as bittersweet as could be with both of us knowing we'd soon be separated.

That night Ameku, A guest Fromm the house named Sho, Mari and I headed to Naha where Mari and I met with Banks Sensei and Tanaka at a bar I had visited with Tanaka and Banks before. It's a small place up some steep narrow stairs and can't hold more than 15 people. It's run by a mother daughter couple. The mother is apparently the wife of a baker in Yonabaru, the same place Banks Sensei and I stopped every morning on the way to Nakazato's house. Okinawa seemed to get smaller every day. After a few beers we headed over to Naohide's bar where we asked him a number of questions. I had wanted Naohide to put some technique on me so I could evaluate him but when Tanaka didnt seem to understand that I just wanted to feel the technique. When he asked Naohide he kept using the word oeshite - which means to teach. For one reason or the other Nahohide thought it was a strange request but later started to show a number of techniques and also taught us a number of exercises. It was pretty damn cool and was exactly what I was looking for.

Ameku and some friends stopped by after and we all drank Awamori and a number of people karaoke'd which was extra cool because the blind piano player played while they sang and Naohide played the clarinet as well a few times. He also produced a small, round, metal instrument that fit in the palm of his hand. It had a hole to blow into and a few small holes on top. He played a pretty cool little tune that left me very impressed.

We left and Ameku and his friends left Mari and I to hit the town so that we could enjoy our last night together. We found a cheap club where we some drinks and that was the night. Woke up the next day, took some pictures with everybody and Left with Banks, Mari and Tanaka for the airport. Airport was a bit scary because we go there late and I thought I'd miss my flight. Mari stayed with me till the security check point where we said a very sad goodbye.

Looking back at Okinawa there are a few things I'll never forget. Walking into the hostel and meeting Mari, our first night of drinking. My second night where Mari, after she'd been drinking, snuck into my room and crawled in bed with me. Nothing happened but she laid next to me and said in that smooth, soft, heavily accented voice of hers "Damon, I like you" which at the time was the most complete sentence I'd heard her say in English. Sitting on the beach watching the sun go down. The fireworks that got shot off from the the opposite side of the bay the night after while Mari and I sat on the beach and Mari exclaiming "romanticu!". Watching Tanaka karaoke while Naohide rocked the clarinet. Standing on the bridge in front of the hostel at 4am my last night with Mari, holding her and telling her I'd bring her to Colorado. Bit cheesy but things I'll never forget. Okinawa was the best experience I've ever had and Tokyo has been pretty lame in comparison. But it never had a chance to begin with.

Tokyo is interesting though, some cool temples near the hostel. Ate udon and tempura with Dai and his mother. Was very happy to see them again after meeting them last year in Colorado.

More to come

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Japan update

Night before last I introduced the hostel staff to the famous American drinking game. Luckily it never got as crazy as in college, as the last thing I needed to be in the hostel was sitting on the floor naked. The rules are pretty hard to explain in Japanese but once we got playing everyone learned how to play pretty quick. We had a great time even though I got 3 of the kings cups the first game. It turns out Awamori and Orion beer mix well. Afterwards we went and ate some yakuzori which is what you eat at 1am after drinking. Ameku took off after we ate but Harada, Mari, and I headed to the closest karaoke bar. Mari is really good at karaoke but I'm pretty terrible so I had to a song that involved more talking than singing. So of course I did "Sex Machine" by James Brown. We got back at about 3am and after spending some more time with Mari I crashed out.

Drinking till 3 am made going to Nakazato's house at 8am with Banks Sensei difficult but after I got digging I woke up at bit. We found some old stamp books with stamps from the 60's and Soke's bowling ball and trophies (who would have thought) and headed back to the house around noonish. I've really enjoyed by time talking to Banks Sensei even if we don't agree on everything. It's been a good time.

Went to RyujiRo Castle with Mari after which was pretty cool. It's been burned down four times and was heavily damaged during the battle for Okinawa. It's been restored since and was my first Japanese Castle. First castle I've been to where where upon entering you are given a bag to put your shoes in because you can't wear your shoes inside. Was bit tickled at when I asked one of the guys in a costume if I could take his picture in Japanese and he said yes. Was proud of myself. We got back, did a little drinking and talking and got to bed by 330 which again, made getting up and going to the house today with Banks Sensei hard. We didn't find anything but I grabbed a weapon which Harada later told me said "Shobudo Zen do".

Update:
Returned to house and came up empty, went to tradition village with Mari after. Saw a very cool traditional dance called Asa that involves drums, song, and this one had two people in a dragon costume dancing around. The dragon had a big wooden mouth that made a a huge clapping sound when it was open and shut. The dragon dancers went around and pretended to eat people and their things. The dance ended with the crowd walking around in a circle with the dancers waving their hands around. Mari and I were both a bit embarrassed and we escaped as quickly as possible. Afterwards we say a snake show. The handler first brought out a few snakes and at one point held it so that people could touch it, which both Mari and I didn't have any desire to do. Inside the room on the stage was a glass box that was divided in two with a mongoose on one side and a snake on the other and a piece of sliding glass dividing the two. I thought the handler was going to have them fight but at the end he put a small box in the mongoose's cage and it jumped right in after being commanded to do so. Later we drove to some cliffs and walked a trail that followed the edge of the path. It was raining so Mari threw a small tarp over her head that we had sat on the night before on the beach. She looked very cute with it covering her head like a cloak. We stopped by a grocery store and a movie rental place afterwards and when we got home she made dinner for everybody. The owner also had some raw liver that had been brought over as a gift from the lady who owned the restaurant we had been to a few nights back after we'd been drinking. It smelled very strong and Ameku said he could only eat two pieces of it and that Harada had tried it but couldn't eat one. I cut off a small piece and dipped it in soy sauce mixed with wasabi and it wasn't too bad so I finished the whole piece. Mari tried it as well. Not something I'd eat everyday but now I can say I tried it. Mari and I watched some movies and hit the sack. Another good day.

Today Banks Sensei and I returned to Nakazato's house for the last time and searched the small guest house where I found a number of weapons and books on massage and few spiritual topics. Found a metal box as well that I had hoped would contain the Shobudo books we have been looking for, but inside the box was just a Hakama and a few books that were so decayed that we could barely tell they weren't what we were looking for.

Going to check a few places out today, tomorrow is my last full day in Okinawa.